Arts Thread

Above: Katharina Spitz / Maya Kaplan / Floor Klaassen / Inez Carmen / Loïs Brandsen / Aurélie Defez / Dara Benno / Pablo Salvador Willemars / Lena Winterink / Bobbine Berden Design / Guerline Kamp / Wei-Chi Su

ARTS THREAD takes a look at the highlights of the 14the edition of FASHIONCLASH Festival 2022 which took place from 25 - 27 November 2022 in Maastricht in the Netherlands.

During the festival, work by more than 50 emerging and established designers and artists from different countries around the world was on show.


Two prizes were awarded during the opening on Friday evening. Erik Bergrin & Arkan Zakharov won the Fashion Film & Video jury prize with their film The 8 Dissolutions, made possible in part by Prins Bernhard Cultuurfonds Limburg. Jury panel consisted of Diane Pernet, Cathelijne Blok and Niccolo Montanari. Film Sock Monster by ANT EYE | Hanneke & Tosca won the Kaltblut Magazine Award.

The Clash House is a showcase and development program for designers focusing on crossovers between fashion and other art disciplines, especially the performing arts. Taking part were Arts Thread members Katharina Spitz and Maya Kaplan, as well as Dirk Vaessen, Elliot collective, Niko Markovic. 


The play harder performance by Katharina Spitz is an improvisational performance negotiating boundaries of play, fashion and performance-arts. It involves 5 performers, 6 dynamic looks and a toolbox.  

Human Marionette by Maya Kaplan is a series of three human puppets presented as a show, which includes costumes and innovative accessories that shape the character's ability to move. I developed the marionette mechanism in which the limbs are connected, and the movement is controlled by the limbs.  

Open Mic Night powered by Meester Koetsier Foundation is a comedy club-inspired event featuring a new generation of designers who recently graduated in the Netherlands. Taking part were ARTS THREAD members Floor Klaassen, Inez Carmen and Loïs Brandsen as well as Ruben Jurriën, Kickyland and Lauren Thoonen.

Floor Klaassen explains her collection PLAYHOOD: 'Do you still make enough time to have fun? What is play to you? PLAYHOOD questions today’s performance society and starts a dialogue with the viewer. This humanwear collection gives one a new perspective on play, which originates from deep-rooted memories. I grew up in a soccer family, where participating is more important than winning. It’s a memory that is dear to me and that takes me back to a carefree time. Soccer is not only a personal fascination of mine, but can also serve as a recognition point for others. It’s after all, the biggest game played in our society. '

Inez Carmen explains her collection The Objectification of the Physique; 'This collection started with the fascination of cosmetic surgery, and how we have started to see the body as an object that can be modified in our modern world, although when somebody undergoes a cosmetic procedure there can be a lot of hatred towards it. With this collection I want to make people think about their opinions on cosmetic procedures, but mostly I want to say it is not okay to have prejudices about someone based on their looks.'

Loïs Brandsen explains her collection Blanket: 'My final graduation collection focuses on the question “Where do I belong”? Growing up in two homes in between two opposite cultures that somehow melted well, left me longing for a home that does not even exist. By answering the question given, I recognized my cultural background which resulted in two opposite worlds; the Dutch and Indonesian culture which are intertwined in my family blood. Defining both cultures made me study the sense of belonging and the definition of home.'

New Fashion Narratives exhibition at Bureau Europa was an international selection of designers curated by Glamcult and FASHIONCLASH. Participants included ARTS THREAD members Aurélie Defez, Dara Benno, OUR SHIFT and Pablo Salvador Willemars

eAt ThE rIcH by Aurélie Defez 'is a collection of garments that aims to take a satirical look at the commodification of popular cultures. Quotes taken from internet memes are embroidered onto clothing and accessories historically associated with popular classes, creating an ambiguous narrative around these symbols. By combining cheap garments with embroidery, the project aims to challenge a hierarchic organisation of tastes.'

The ICOE Flood Garment by Dara Benno transforms something as mundane as a shower curtain into an inflatable outfit in the event of a sudden natural disaster, helping not only the individual feel prepared but also empowered to take action in the moment of crisis. 

Coupé 002 by Pablo Salvador Willemars is an installation portraits of a conversation between individuals in a silent train coupé. 'The passengers are dressed in the collection Beste Reizigers (Dear travelers) telling the Dutch story of the culture of hectic contemporary train travel. Seated on first class train seats from a NMBS M2 carriage, wearing two-piece waterproof uniform with yellow service hat and repurposed nylon bias-cut dress with vegan leather square and backpack shoulder piece.'

The OUR SHIFT collection 'calls for a change and raises awareness of the issue of burning clothes. Why are we even talking about sustainability, when clothes, fabrics - even those that were "sustainably made” are burnt in millions of tonnes?” OUR SHIFT took deadstock fabrics and invented a technique called “Fire-Piping” which creates shapes on clothes that resemble fire. With this technique, they are offering a thought-through solution to prevent the burning of clothes with upcycling, and thus end overproduction.'

Also showing were Collective BCHMNN, Mehdi Mashayekhi, LABELEDBY., DOMINIK, SUFI, ZOLI, Denzel Veerkamp, Luca Berger, House of rubber, SCHEPERS BOSMAN.

New Fashion Narratives exhibition at Marres consisted of a multidisciplinary selection of both young and established talent with a link with the Netherlands. ARTS THREAD members included Lena Winterink, Bobbine Berden Design, Guerline Kamp and Wei-Chi Su. 

Personal Patterns by Lena Winterink represents the different identities and individual qualities of the entrepreneurs of the Eendagszaak, in print and garment. The Eendagszaak (One-Day Business) is a Cascoland initiative in Amsterdam Nieuw-West, where entrepreneurial locals can try out their business for one day a week. Each of the patterns belongs to one of the Eendagszaak entrepreneurs, and literally represents a piece of her identity. The entrepreneurs were then asked to design and make a garment with their personal textile; thus, the collection spotlights the designing and dressmaking skills in the Eendagszaak.

When do garments become valuable and what does a piece of clothing say about their owner? Experience the colourful celebration of old garments, but with a new look. The crossover ‘Real Fake X Strolling in Grandmother’s Clothing’ by Bobbine Berde presents fragments of colourful garments crisscrossed in a meadow of life stories.

Created by Guerline Kamp, Asse se sassè 'is about the struggle that I experience with my cultural background as intercountry adopted child (from Haiti) and it shows the journey to my cultural identity in an abstract way. Living between two worlds creates a certain cultural instability. Can a new self-created reality provide the stability that’s missing?'

Centring the Vomit by Wei-Chi Su is a decolonial project that contains a handbook, a series of workshops-Aesthesis ≩ Aesthetic and sensory documentation. Together, this project aims to provide people, especially fashion students, with a self-organised education method that will help to raise awareness of the dominant Eurocentric perspective.

Also showing were Teresa van Twuijver & Studio de Maan, Extended, Antoine Peters, Space For Fiction (SFF), Atelier Dasha Tsapenko.

In the Fashion Film and Video program, a jury panel selected five finalists from the selection and designated a winner for the Fashion Film & Video award powered by Prins Bernhard Cultuurfonds Limburg. In addition, Kaltblut magazine chose a winner from the entire FFV selection.



Participants included ARTS THREAD members Anna Melegh, Chiron Floris, Marija Petraitytė and T*MITROVSKA.

Above, Haute Couture Trash by Anna Melegh: 'a black bin bag is one of the most common households/kitchens item and necessity. It is designed to be sturdy yet has a short life span in terms of use. Produced in massive volume all year round and easy to find in any store. Its purpose is to hold garbage, cover up, collect and hide things from eyesight.'

I wanted to create a footwear piece that is the opposite of these meanings, taking this utterly common symbol and turning it into a high fashion one-off piece. Stopping the viewer: Is this a shoe or a bin bag?



ALGOS by Chiron Floris is 'the pain of longing back. The environment makes the individual and the individual makes the environment. But what influence does a certain place or the lack of a certain place have on an individual? Do we long for places that do not exist and are we homesick for illusions? In this film, I show a search for the border between environment and clothing. Can clothing influence an individual as much as the environment can?


Distance from a point film by Marija Petraityté. Collection represents self-analysis path and how important is to analyses yourself and your work sometimes. Film is a small reflection of this idea - nomads are slowly traveling from one point to another, they stare at each other while analysing one other. At the end of the travel they see a giant ring in a sky - this circle in film represents words 'the finding yourself in you'.

‘Mind your Mind by T*MITROVSKA looks at the duality between enjoying the comfort of your own home but feeling trapped and alone in isolation.

Also showing were films from Erik Bergrin and directed by Arkan Zakharov, Roumans, Clara Son, Hadi Moussally, JING QIAN, Haus Of Stone by Danayi Madondo, , Saskia Roturier, Caterina DeRousse, PUNTJUDITH, NEO Design, Bastiaan van der Hoek, Wendy Owusu, ANT EYE | Hanneke & Tosca.

We can't wait for FASHIONCLASH 2023! For more information see the FASHIONCLASH website

Of
Interest

Sara Sozzani Maino's favourites from Global Design Graduate Show 2022 in collaboration with Gucci

Sara Sozzani Maino's favourites from Global Design Graduate Show 2022 in collaboration with Gucci

November 22nd, 2022
Written by Katie Dominy
Fashion Design, Textiles, Accessories
Dutch Design Week 2022 > Design Academy Eindhoven > New Materials

Dutch Design Week 2022 > Design Academy Eindhoven > New Materials

November 10th, 2022
Written by ARTS THREAD Europe Editor
Product Design, Textiles, Ceramics
What do you Call it ? creative showcase

What do you Call it ? creative showcase

January 17th, 2023
Written by Honor Rose Cooper Hedges
Fine Art

Above: Katharina Spitz / Maya Kaplan / Floor Klaassen / Inez Carmen / Loïs Brandsen / Aurélie Defez / Dara Benno / Pablo Salvador Willemars / Lena Winterink / Bobbine Berden Design / Guerline Kamp / Wei-Chi Su

ARTS THREAD takes a look at the highlights of the 14the edition of FASHIONCLASH Festival 2022 which took place from 25 - 27 November 2022 in Maastricht in the Netherlands.

During the festival, work by more than 50 emerging and established designers and artists from different countries around the world was on show.


Two prizes were awarded during the opening on Friday evening. Erik Bergrin & Arkan Zakharov won the Fashion Film & Video jury prize with their film The 8 Dissolutions, made possible in part by Prins Bernhard Cultuurfonds Limburg. Jury panel consisted of Diane Pernet, Cathelijne Blok and Niccolo Montanari. Film Sock Monster by ANT EYE | Hanneke & Tosca won the Kaltblut Magazine Award.

The Clash House is a showcase and development program for designers focusing on crossovers between fashion and other art disciplines, especially the performing arts. Taking part were Arts Thread members Katharina Spitz and Maya Kaplan, as well as Dirk Vaessen, Elliot collective, Niko Markovic. 


The play harder performance by Katharina Spitz is an improvisational performance negotiating boundaries of play, fashion and performance-arts. It involves 5 performers, 6 dynamic looks and a toolbox.  

Human Marionette by Maya Kaplan is a series of three human puppets presented as a show, which includes costumes and innovative accessories that shape the character's ability to move. I developed the marionette mechanism in which the limbs are connected, and the movement is controlled by the limbs.  

Open Mic Night powered by Meester Koetsier Foundation is a comedy club-inspired event featuring a new generation of designers who recently graduated in the Netherlands. Taking part were ARTS THREAD members Floor Klaassen, Inez Carmen and Loïs Brandsen as well as Ruben Jurriën, Kickyland and Lauren Thoonen.

Floor Klaassen explains her collection PLAYHOOD: 'Do you still make enough time to have fun? What is play to you? PLAYHOOD questions today’s performance society and starts a dialogue with the viewer. This humanwear collection gives one a new perspective on play, which originates from deep-rooted memories. I grew up in a soccer family, where participating is more important than winning. It’s a memory that is dear to me and that takes me back to a carefree time. Soccer is not only a personal fascination of mine, but can also serve as a recognition point for others. It’s after all, the biggest game played in our society. '

Inez Carmen explains her collection The Objectification of the Physique; 'This collection started with the fascination of cosmetic surgery, and how we have started to see the body as an object that can be modified in our modern world, although when somebody undergoes a cosmetic procedure there can be a lot of hatred towards it. With this collection I want to make people think about their opinions on cosmetic procedures, but mostly I want to say it is not okay to have prejudices about someone based on their looks.'

Loïs Brandsen explains her collection Blanket: 'My final graduation collection focuses on the question “Where do I belong”? Growing up in two homes in between two opposite cultures that somehow melted well, left me longing for a home that does not even exist. By answering the question given, I recognized my cultural background which resulted in two opposite worlds; the Dutch and Indonesian culture which are intertwined in my family blood. Defining both cultures made me study the sense of belonging and the definition of home.'

New Fashion Narratives exhibition at Bureau Europa was an international selection of designers curated by Glamcult and FASHIONCLASH. Participants included ARTS THREAD members Aurélie Defez, Dara Benno, OUR SHIFT and Pablo Salvador Willemars

eAt ThE rIcH by Aurélie Defez 'is a collection of garments that aims to take a satirical look at the commodification of popular cultures. Quotes taken from internet memes are embroidered onto clothing and accessories historically associated with popular classes, creating an ambiguous narrative around these symbols. By combining cheap garments with embroidery, the project aims to challenge a hierarchic organisation of tastes.'

The ICOE Flood Garment by Dara Benno transforms something as mundane as a shower curtain into an inflatable outfit in the event of a sudden natural disaster, helping not only the individual feel prepared but also empowered to take action in the moment of crisis. 

Coupé 002 by Pablo Salvador Willemars is an installation portraits of a conversation between individuals in a silent train coupé. 'The passengers are dressed in the collection Beste Reizigers (Dear travelers) telling the Dutch story of the culture of hectic contemporary train travel. Seated on first class train seats from a NMBS M2 carriage, wearing two-piece waterproof uniform with yellow service hat and repurposed nylon bias-cut dress with vegan leather square and backpack shoulder piece.'

The OUR SHIFT collection 'calls for a change and raises awareness of the issue of burning clothes. Why are we even talking about sustainability, when clothes, fabrics - even those that were "sustainably made” are burnt in millions of tonnes?” OUR SHIFT took deadstock fabrics and invented a technique called “Fire-Piping” which creates shapes on clothes that resemble fire. With this technique, they are offering a thought-through solution to prevent the burning of clothes with upcycling, and thus end overproduction.'

Also showing were Collective BCHMNN, Mehdi Mashayekhi, LABELEDBY., DOMINIK, SUFI, ZOLI, Denzel Veerkamp, Luca Berger, House of rubber, SCHEPERS BOSMAN.

New Fashion Narratives exhibition at Marres consisted of a multidisciplinary selection of both young and established talent with a link with the Netherlands. ARTS THREAD members included Lena Winterink, Bobbine Berden Design, Guerline Kamp and Wei-Chi Su. 

Personal Patterns by Lena Winterink represents the different identities and individual qualities of the entrepreneurs of the Eendagszaak, in print and garment. The Eendagszaak (One-Day Business) is a Cascoland initiative in Amsterdam Nieuw-West, where entrepreneurial locals can try out their business for one day a week. Each of the patterns belongs to one of the Eendagszaak entrepreneurs, and literally represents a piece of her identity. The entrepreneurs were then asked to design and make a garment with their personal textile; thus, the collection spotlights the designing and dressmaking skills in the Eendagszaak.

When do garments become valuable and what does a piece of clothing say about their owner? Experience the colourful celebration of old garments, but with a new look. The crossover ‘Real Fake X Strolling in Grandmother’s Clothing’ by Bobbine Berde presents fragments of colourful garments crisscrossed in a meadow of life stories.

Created by Guerline Kamp, Asse se sassè 'is about the struggle that I experience with my cultural background as intercountry adopted child (from Haiti) and it shows the journey to my cultural identity in an abstract way. Living between two worlds creates a certain cultural instability. Can a new self-created reality provide the stability that’s missing?'

Centring the Vomit by Wei-Chi Su is a decolonial project that contains a handbook, a series of workshops-Aesthesis ≩ Aesthetic and sensory documentation. Together, this project aims to provide people, especially fashion students, with a self-organised education method that will help to raise awareness of the dominant Eurocentric perspective.

Also showing were Teresa van Twuijver & Studio de Maan, Extended, Antoine Peters, Space For Fiction (SFF), Atelier Dasha Tsapenko.

In the Fashion Film and Video program, a jury panel selected five finalists from the selection and designated a winner for the Fashion Film & Video award powered by Prins Bernhard Cultuurfonds Limburg. In addition, Kaltblut magazine chose a winner from the entire FFV selection.



Participants included ARTS THREAD members Anna Melegh, Chiron Floris, Marija Petraitytė and T*MITROVSKA.

Above, Haute Couture Trash by Anna Melegh: 'a black bin bag is one of the most common households/kitchens item and necessity. It is designed to be sturdy yet has a short life span in terms of use. Produced in massive volume all year round and easy to find in any store. Its purpose is to hold garbage, cover up, collect and hide things from eyesight.'

I wanted to create a footwear piece that is the opposite of these meanings, taking this utterly common symbol and turning it into a high fashion one-off piece. Stopping the viewer: Is this a shoe or a bin bag?



ALGOS by Chiron Floris is 'the pain of longing back. The environment makes the individual and the individual makes the environment. But what influence does a certain place or the lack of a certain place have on an individual? Do we long for places that do not exist and are we homesick for illusions? In this film, I show a search for the border between environment and clothing. Can clothing influence an individual as much as the environment can?


Distance from a point film by Marija Petraityté. Collection represents self-analysis path and how important is to analyses yourself and your work sometimes. Film is a small reflection of this idea - nomads are slowly traveling from one point to another, they stare at each other while analysing one other. At the end of the travel they see a giant ring in a sky - this circle in film represents words 'the finding yourself in you'.

‘Mind your Mind by T*MITROVSKA looks at the duality between enjoying the comfort of your own home but feeling trapped and alone in isolation.

Also showing were films from Erik Bergrin and directed by Arkan Zakharov, Roumans, Clara Son, Hadi Moussally, JING QIAN, Haus Of Stone by Danayi Madondo, , Saskia Roturier, Caterina DeRousse, PUNTJUDITH, NEO Design, Bastiaan van der Hoek, Wendy Owusu, ANT EYE | Hanneke & Tosca.

We can't wait for FASHIONCLASH 2023! For more information see the FASHIONCLASH website

Of
Interest

Sara Sozzani Maino's favourites from Global Design Graduate Show 2022 in collaboration with Gucci

Sara Sozzani Maino's favourites from Global Design Graduate Show 2022 in collaboration with Gucci

November 22nd, 2022
Written by Katie Dominy
Fashion Design, Textiles, Accessories
Dutch Design Week 2022 > Design Academy Eindhoven > New Materials

Dutch Design Week 2022 > Design Academy Eindhoven > New Materials

November 10th, 2022
Written by ARTS THREAD Europe Editor
Product Design, Textiles, Ceramics
What do you Call it ? creative showcase

What do you Call it ? creative showcase

January 17th, 2023
Written by Honor Rose Cooper Hedges
Fine Art