Accademia Costume & Moda
Graduates: 2025
Specialisms: Menswear / Textile Innovation/Textile Art / Accessories
My location: Milan, Italy
First Name: Pietro Giuseppe
Last Name: Cabassi
University / College: Accademia Costume & Moda
Course / Program: not listed
Graduates: 2025
Specialisms: Menswear / Textile Innovation/Textile Art / Accessories
My Location: Milan, Italy
Website: Click To See Website
Abstract: This project investigates the intersection between avantgarde aesthetics and contemporary high-level tailoring. The aim is to redefine the relationship between experimentation, construction, and quality in menswear, while resisting the industrial standardisation that dominates the current fashion system. The research originates from direct experience inside Brioni's factory in Penne, where more than six hundred manual steps and over seventy hours of work are required to complete a single jacket. Observing the coexistence of Brioni's artisanal production and Gucci's industrial jackets within the same facility revealed a clear contrast between human precision and mechanical efficiency. This duality became the conceptual foundation of the work. The collection draws inspiration from designers such as Carol Christian Poell, Maurizio Amadei, Maurizio Altieri, and Rick Owens, whose practices merge brutalist aesthetics with deep material sensi-tivity. Through a year-long technical investigation, the project reconstructs and adapts Poell-inspired construction techniques on leather, in particular the Overlock Seam: a three-step process combining overlock stitching on a Venus IDL 302, reinforcement with Juki MF7923 or Union Special 36200-PJ, and internal sealing with hot melt adhesive. This transforms the seam into a living architectural element that exposes, rather than hides, its own structure. Each garment becomes an object of construction and memory, shaped in leather or fabric, cut, burned, and hand-finished. The work rejects decorative luxury and proposes a vision in which precision and imperfection coexist as an authentic language of making. Avantgarde Tailoring: The Anatomy of Craft stands as a manifesto for radical and contemporary craftsmanship, positioning the tailor not as a nostalgic figure, but as a contemporary author who, through gesture and material, redefines the anatomy of menswear.