Arts Thread

Jess Redgrave
Material Futures MA

Central Saint Martins UAL

Graduates: 2022

Specialisms: Sustainable Fashion/Textiles / Apparel / Textile Innovation/Textile Art

My location: London, United Kingdom

jess-redgrave ArtsThread Profile
Central Saint Martins UAL

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Jess Redgrave

jess-redgrave ArtsThread Profile

First Name: Jess

Last Name: Redgrave

University / College: Central Saint Martins UAL

Course / Program: Material Futures MA

Graduates: 2022

Specialisms: Sustainable Fashion/Textiles / Apparel / Textile Innovation/Textile Art

My Location: London, United Kingdom

Website: Click To See Website

About:

Jess Redgrave is a multidisciplinary designer working at the intersection of fashion and science, pushing the boundaries of regenerative design and traditional biological practices. After completing a BA in Fashion Design and Technology from Manchester Metropolitan University, Jess established her career in the fashion industry by designing for many international brands. After working for several years as a designer and encountering the massive environmental damage and waste caused by the fashion industry, she felt compelled to retrain and use her skills to reimagine what design, fashion and the use of materials could look like through an alternative lens where the health of the planet and its inhabitants was centred.As a result, Jess enrolled in Material Futures where she set up her design practice with a focus on fashion that’s actively good for the planet and biodiversity. Her approach is to champion regeneration via the creation process, while using innovative technology to ensure transparency and accountability in the supply chain.

CLimafibre

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Appreciations  4

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What is fashion's place in a world that is rapidly running out of natural resources? The fashion industry's disastrous environmental impact is no secret. Unsustainable agricultural systems and contamination from synthetic fibres, dyes and finishes continuously pollute ecosystems and decimate biodiversity throughout the value chain whilst simultaneously perpetuating socio-economic injustices. Consumerism has fuelled the desire for fast fashion, which is reliant on overconsumption of finite resources and intensive farming practices. Increasing amounts of fertilisers and pesticides are needed to meet these demands, degrading the soil resulting in a loss of arable land. For fashion to have a future, there needs to be an imminent shift to regenerative practices that protect biodiversity and support agricultural food systems. Sunflowers could provide a solution. Sunflowers are utilised as a part of regenerative agricultural systems and aid climate mitigation through soil remediation and boosting biodiversity above and below ground. Cultivated globally, sunflowers can be grown without fertilisers and can be companioned and rotated with other food crops. Sunflowers have extensive root systems, known as taproots, that penetrate deep into the soil, preventing it from compacting and helping to sequester carbon. This type of root system allows symbiotic relationships with beneficial bacteria, fungi and microbes to be formed, which provide the plant with nutrients and help prevent diseases, promoting healthy soils. Sunflowers can withstand drought and can grow in vastly varying ecosystems. Their natural resilience has made them a model for scientists studying climate change adaptation. Climafibre has developed fibre for textiles, natural dyes and a hydropic coating made entirely from sunflowers. Using enzymes derived from bacteria and fungi, Climafibre has worked closely with scientists to develop a unique process to isolate cellulose fibres from sunflower stems. These fibres are then combed and spun into a yarn, then woven into a fabric. The hydrophobic coating is made from a by-product of the sunflower oil industry and provides water-resistant protection for natural fibres without the use of harmful chemicals. This coating allows the fabric to maintain its breathable qualities with minimal alteration to its aesthetics or hand feel. Climafibre's bold colour palette has been developed from pigments extracted from various parts of the flower. They can be used as a natural alternative for textile dyes and printing, free from fossil fuels. Climafibre envisions a future localised production network within Bioregion PA9*, which integrates food and fibre systems and promotes regenerative agriculture. *Bioregion PA9 encompasses the UK, Ireland and the Faroe Islands.