Arts Thread

In Threads and Steel is a knitwear collection tells a story of reclamation of craft, heritage and forgotten legacies. Inspired by the once powerful iron and steel industry of Teesside, this concept reflects the resilience embedded in the industrial bones of the region, while drawing upon a more personal, feminine history: one that echoes through the delicate artistry of lace. Growing up in Teesside, I was surrounded by remnants of the steel industry: towering structures, industrial architecture, and the memory of a booming era that once defined the local economy. This heritage, though faded, is still deeply rooted in the landscape and its people. A key influence and muse in this collection is Jeanne Paquin, a trailblazer in the world of couture, whose revolutionary use of black and lace captivated early 20th-century Paris, yet whose name has largely slipped from fashion’s collective memory, this collection seeks to honour the strength of the forgotten. Paquin’s bold use of black, long associated with mourning and transformed it into a colour of power, sophistication, and rebellion, embracing a duality of strength and femininity. The palette, centred around black, petrol, silver and soft champagne, captures this. Black, a colour often linked with mourning, becomes a symbol of resilience, a nod to Paquin’s fearless designs and the industrial legacy of Teesside. Champagne softens the harshness, introducing an ethereal elegance that allows the textures of the knitwear to shine. The materials I have chosen emphasise the tension between industrial toughness and feminine elegance. The collection features a mix of luxurious, soft fibres such as silk and merino wool, alongside metal-infused yarns, copper wire, and monofilament. The softness of silk and wool represents the personal, intimate side of the collection, while the steel mixed fibres reflect the industrial legacy of Teesside. Copper wire brings a structural toughness to the pieces, echoing the rugged beauty of industrial landscapes. These materials work together to create textural depth and complexity, reinforcing the collection’s themes of duality and contrast. This collection is for the modern wearer who, like Jeanne Paquin, refuses to be forgotten. It speaks to those who cherish history but wear it boldly in the present, blending tradition with contemporary design. Industrial toughness merges with feminine elegance, as each piece challenges convention while celebrating the beauty of craft, heritage, and memory.

This evening wear collection tells a story of reclamation of craft, heritage and forgotten legacies. Inspired by the once powerful iron and steel industry of Teesside, this concept reflects the resilience embedded in the industrial bones of the region, while drawing upon a more personal, feminine history: one that echoes through the delicate artistry of lace.

Brutalist Belles In the post-war landscape of 1950s Britain, two movements stood in stark contrast yet shared a common ethos: Brutalism and the Teddy Boy subculture. Brutalist architecture, with its raw concrete facades and imposing geometric forms, rejected ornamentation in favour of function and honesty of materials. The Teddy Boys, in contrast, rebelled against austerity with exaggerated Edwardian tailoring, slicked-back hair, and a defiant attitude drawn from American rock ‘n’ roll. This collection reimagines these influences for contemporary womenswear, fusing the rigidity of Brutalism with the rebellious spirit of the Teddy Girl. Knitwear becomes the perfect medium to explore this intersection both structured and soft, architectural yet intimate. Heavy gauge knits mimic the rawness of exposed concrete, while delicate knits reference the intricate detailing found in the subculture’s tailoring. The colour palette reflects Brutalist structures; slate grey, charcoal, and oxidized metal, contrasted with sharp, unexpected jolts of powder blue, deep oxblood, and asphalt black, echoing the Teddy Boy’s rich velvets and satins.\ This collection is for the woman who embodies both resilience and subversion, standing unshaken in a world that demands conformity. Just as Brutalism found beauty in rawness and Teddy Girls claimed space in a world of sharp suits and sharper stares, this collection celebrates a defiant elegance, bold, uncompromising, and unapologetically strong.